Pinot Noir….. The story of a myth
Pinot Noir is one of the most important grape varieties in the world. We can describe Pinot Noir in two words: The enfant terrible of grape varieties. Today we’ll talk about one of the most famous grape varieties in the entire winemaking world, for better or worse. Yes, because Pinot Noir is a red grape variety, proneto caprices and unpredictability, that develops a powerful bond with its terroir.
If grown in unsuitable soil, this legendary grape will produce bland, flat wines. However, when it finds the right soil, Pinot Noir produces some of the finest premium red wines in the world. But what is the history of Pinot Noir? To find out, we’ve taken a step back in time to when Gaul was a Roman province. Its history takes us to one of France’s great wine regions: BURGUNDY. It is here that the grape variety originated, as early as the Gallo-Roman era, from a wild vine that populated the region’s many forests. The first definition of what would later take the name Pinot Noir can perhaps be found in a 3rd-4th century document in which the inhabitants of Autun thank Emperor Constantine. The document mentions a high-quality grape variety grown in the pagus Arebrignus, today’s Côte de Nuits.
In the Middle Ages, as with many other grape varieties, Benedictine and Cistercian monks perfected Pinot viticulture, bringing it into modern times. But it was precisely in the 14th century, in some Burgundian documents, that the term Pinot first appeared, in the archaic form of Pinoz or Pynos. It’s important to know that Pinot Noir is the parent of other very important French grape varieties, such as Chardonnay, Aligoté, and Gamay.
You might ask, how many types of Pinot are there?
The answer is 6, but Pinot Noir, as we saw above, is the original grape variety, thanks to its thousand-year history. The others:
Pinot Gris,
Pinot Blanc,
Pinot meunier
Pinot teinturier
Pinot Noir (early)
Why is it called Pinot?
Because the bunches of this grape, being small and compact, resemble pine cones—Pinot in French.
Let’s talk about winemaking and aging.
The Pinot Noir grape has a very thin skin, a characteristic that allows it to be vinified as both white and red.
Red Winemaking
Pinot Noir’s red winemaking is the most famous method today. To produce excellent red wines, it’s essential that the grape be grown in areas with a continental climate, where temperatures don’t become too hot and cause excessive ripening of the grapes.
Maceration, which gives the wine its characteristic ruby color, takes place in steel vats where the first fermentation begins, followed by barrel aging, during which a second fermentation takes place—malolactic fermentation, in this case—which converts malic acid into lactic acid, giving the wine its smoothness. Thanks to its acidity, Pinot Noir can age from 2 to 10 years (and sometimes even longer).
White Winemaking
We can’t fail to mention the white winemaking of this grape variety, especially since the history of Pinot Noir here intertwines with that of Champagne. Indeed, once the skins are removed, Pinot Noir can be vinified as a white wine, thanks in part to its characteristic acidity. In this latter case, the grape is used primarily to produce Champagne and Crémant, which, if made with Pinot Noir and/or Meunier grapes, is classified as a “blanc de noirs.”
Sensory Characteristics
All grape varieties express their terroir, but none like Pinot Noir. This grape variety’s connection to the land where it grows is so close that it’s difficult to speak in absolute terms about the characteristics of Pinot Noir. Things get more complex when describing a Pinot Noir from the Old World (in our region, Europe) or the New World (the United States, Canada, South Africa, and New Zealand, to name a few). So? Despite the unique characteristics of each Pinot Noir, Burgundy is undoubtedly the grape variety’s most noble expression and the model wine from which all others draw inspiration.
Let’s talk about the characteristics of Pinot Noir from Burgundy.
Burgundy, it goes without saying, given that it is the grape’s native region, is the reference point both for the history of Pinot Noir and for its winemaking, even today. Here, more precisely in the Côte de Nuits (where almost all the grand crus are concentrated), some of the best red wines in the world are produced.
The color is a vivid ruby when the wine is young, but shifts toward purplish red as it ages, gradually becoming a paler, almost brick-red. The same can be said for its aromas. When young, Pinot Noir offers aromas of red fruit, such as raspberry and cherry, along with spicy notes such as black pepper and cinnamon. With aging, the aromas change, from red fruit to jam, from spices to undergrowth aromas, such as truffle. On the palate, the tannins gradually become less pronounced depending on the age of the wine, as does the acidity. But whether young or old, Pinot Noir is a red wine that always maintains a pleasant freshness.
Beyond Burgundy, where can we find Pinot Noir?
As mentioned at the beginning, Pinot Noir is a temperamental grape, prone to disease, mold, parasites, or a less than ideal climate. This is why the best Pinot Noirs outside of Burgundy are—surprise surprise—those produced in areas whose terroir resembles that of the French region. The more pronounced the similarity, the more the Pinot Noir produced will resemble the French version in terms of characteristics and elegance, which, as we’ve seen, is the benchmark for evaluating an excellent Pinot Noir. Speaking of areas, there are some in the New World that are just as good as Burgundy.
One example is the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Oregon Pinot Noir wines are hearty, offering aromas of red fruit, from strawberry to raspberry, and floral notes complemented by notes of forest floor, mushrooms, and truffles.
Another interesting region is Marlborough in New Zealand. In recent years, Pinot Noir of the highest quality has been produced here, thanks to the clay soil and climatic conditions reminiscent of—you guessed it—Burgundy. On the nose, you’ll experience red fruit like currant and cherry, accompanied by woody notes; the tannins are elegant and the acidity is moderate.
Two interesting regions are the Okanagan and Niagara Falls in Canada. The terroir of Canadian wine regions is characterized by a unique combination of geographical location, soil type, and climate, which contribute to the character of the wines produced. For example, the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia enjoys a semi-arid climate with warm summers and cool nights, ideal for structured wines with fresh acidity. The soils in this region vary from gravelly soils to sandy soils and volcanic rock, contributing to the complexity of the wines.
In Ontario, the Niagara Peninsula is the largest and most renowned region, known for its diverse grape varieties. The cooler climate of Prince Edward County cultivates grapes with balanced acidity, producing wines that reflect elegance and vivacity. Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley is known for its distinctive limestone-rich terroir, which lends a mineral complexity to its wines.
These regions are known not only for the quality of their wines, but also for their breathtaking landscapes and cultural significance. Visitors can explore historic towns, participate in wine tastings, and discover the unique charm of each Canadian wine region.
Finally, I’d like to mention Pinot Noir in Italy.
Two Italian regions deserve a mention when it comes to Pinot Noir: Alto Adige and Lombardy, or more specifically, Oltrepò Pavese.
Both areas have been awarded a DOC, Alto Adige Pinot Noir DOC and Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Noir DOC.
Pinot Noir arrived in Alto Adige thanks to the Habsburgs at the beginning of the 19th century and later became one of the region’s most iconic grape varieties. Alto Adige Pinot Noir is characterized by an intense aroma of red berries, violets, and cloves. Pinot Noir also arrived in Oltrepò Pavese at the turn of the 19th century, in 1865 to be precise, when Count Carlo Giorgi di Vistarino planted the first vines. Initially, Pinot Noir was vinified as a white wine and used to make sparkling wines(classic or Champenoise method) . Only in the second half of the 20th century did some producers begin to vinify as a red wine. While in the 1960s there were 600 hectares of vineyards, by 2010 (the year Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Noir DOC was created) they had already reached 2,800 hectares, which at the time represented 70% of all Pinot Noir vineyards in Italy. In terms of characteristics, Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Noir is characterized by notes of cherry and red fruit, violets, and spices.
Pairing Pinot Noir with Food
We’ve explored the characteristics of Pinot Noir; let’s explore what to pair it with. The lively acidity and soft tannins make Pinot Noir wines the ideal pairing for a wide variety of meats. The aromas of red fruit and spices combine perfectly with the juiciness of a ox fillet or grilled free-range chicken. If you love fish, grilled salmon or tuna are ideal; Pinot Noir offers an intriguing contrast thanks to the combination of the wine’s red fruit aromas and the smoky flavors of the fish.
But the pairing possibilities for Pinot Noir don’t stop with meat; its versatility makes it an excellent partner for aged cheeses. The aromatic complexity of Pinot Noir pairs beautifully with cheeses such as Parmiggiano Reggiano,Grana Padano, Pecorino, and Gorgonzola, creating a harmonious balance between the sweetness of the cheeses and the freshness and light acidity of the wine.
Another perfect pairing for Pinot Noir is mushroom-based dishes, such as creamy risottos or grilled porcini mushrooms, a natural choice to enhance and recall the earthy and mineral notes of this wine.